Being in Te Anau with a library that had free wifi was quite nice. So nice I sat there until some time after noon today before I started riding. Had lots I needed to catch up on. Was really far behind on emails. People mostly stopped emailing me when I dropped out of the world so it's not too hard to keep up. Hadn't talked to some people I like talking to in a while and managed to catch some of them online. Spent time trying to find new things to eat. Saved a bunch of tunes on Spotify and got more pictures uploaded. Productive morning.

Now I was kinda worried. Setting out for a 100km ride after lunch time. The road from Te Anau to Tuatapere was mostly flat, slightly downhill except for Jericho hill. On my elevation chart in Pedallers' Paradise it was just a giant spike. Anyway, I'd been pedaling with a minor tail wind and pretty happy about that up until Jericho hill at which point I weave back and forth going up the climb and lose that tail wind. About half way up I start realizing I think I have a bit of a cold and this cold drizzle surely isn't going to help. By the end of the climb I'm feeling miserable but the even steeper drop on the other side helps.

Not long after this hill I'm in a wooded area and I can hear the trees violently swaying in the wind. Trying to figure out what direction it's going before I get out of their shelter. Wait. It's… coming from behind? No way.

I get out of the trees and feel like I get shoved from behind. Enormous winds gusting are sending me sailing. I stop pedaling and am being pushed at almost 25mph! I spend the next 60km gently pedaling and cruising between 20-35mph on a fully loaded bike. Every time the road bended it was terrifying. I was almost always getting enough wind from behind still to keep a good pace but was also getting hit from the side and could feel myself being shoved around the road.

About half way through the windy times I saw a fully loaded tandem bike pulling a trailer, going the other way! They stop and we chat for a bit. A couple from France that was not having fun today. I tell them about a cheap backpackers place 10km off the road we are on, I certainly wouldn't want to do 50km more into the wind at that point.

Tuatapere is, apparently, the sausage capital of New Zealand though I ate no sausage tonight. More importantly it's along the “southern scenic route” and a 85km ride from Invercargill, a big city on the southern coast.

I cycled a whopping 3km today. Normally I enjoy that a little on days off but today it sucked. On the plus side, the weather at Milford Sound had cleared up and it was a beautiful day.

This morning I went for a cruise through the fjord out to the Tasman sea. The first purely touristy thing I spent money on but it was a pretty worth it experience. Saw the fjord up close and from the other side. It's no wonder it was missed twice before being discovered, can see the entrance appear to vanish before you're even in the sea. Also saw a lot of fur seals and a couple more penguins.

Apparently there was expected rockfall on the road to Milford Sound today so officials were all around trying to keep traffic on the road down. Tour busses weren't allowed to make any stops at all. Looks like I wouldn't have been able to pull off riding in today had I tried. Wound up leaving by a bus back to Te Anau which cut off at least two days of riding.

Taking a bus was a, well, interesting experience. Here we are, driving out of a fjord. through some of the most beautiful terrain I've seen here, and half of the people around me are trying to take a nap. It's not the same by bus, though. The ride in had so much meaning for me a couple days ago but it wasn't there as our big box of air conditioning and soft music blew past everything I saw so slowly. I watched the bench I ate lunch on, the sign I laughed at, the place I stole water from just blow past. I was regretting not trying harder to find simply a way out of the avalanche area, instead the typical ride all the way to town. If riding in on a bike did not manage to completely sell me on bicycle touring being the right way to do this, seeing it on a bus sure did.

Today's chunk of life advice (beyond the one about how seeing the world on a bike is better than on a bus) is that Ohio purchased bug repellent does not cut it in a rain forest. I feel like my legs were literally devoured by sand flies while there, they are covered in giant itchy red blotches. Also leave your water bottles in your tent. A kea parrot ate the mouth piece for my big insulated bottle.

I cycled a whopping 3km today. Normally I enjoy that a little on days off but today it sucked. On the plus side, the weather at Milford Sound had cleared up and it was a beautiful day.

This morning I went for a cruise through the fjord out to the Tasman sea. The first purely touristy thing I spent money on but it was a pretty worth it experience. Saw the fjord up close and from the other side. It's no wonder it was missed twice before being discovered, can see the entrance appear to vanish before you're even in the sea. Also saw a lot of fur seals and a couple more penguins.

Apparently there was expected rockfall on the road to Milford Sound today so officials were all around trying to keep traffic on the road down. Tour busses weren't allowed to make any stops at all. Looks like I wouldn't have been able to pull off riding in today had I tried. Wound up leaving by a bus back to Te Anau which cut off at least two days of riding.

Taking a bus was a, well, interesting experience. Here we are, driving out of a fjord. through some of the most beautiful terrain I've seen here, and half of the people around me are trying to take a nap. It's not the same by bus, though. The ride in had so much meaning for me a couple days ago but it wasn't there as our big box of air conditioning and soft music blew past everything I saw so slowly. I watched the bench I ate lunch on, the sign I laughed at, the place I stole water from just blow past. I was regretting not trying harder to find simply a way out of the avalanche area, instead the typical ride all the way to town. If riding in on a bike did not manage to completely sell me on bicycle touring being the right way to do this, seeing it on a bus sure did.

Today's chunk of life advice (beyond the one about how seeing the world on a bike is better than on a bus) is that Ohio purchased bug repellent does not cut it in a rain forest. I feel like my legs were literally devoured by sand flies while there, they are covered in giant itchy red blotches. Also leave your water bottles in your tent. A kea parrot ate the mouth piece for my big insulated bottle.

I just posted four days of blog entries at once. Days 25-26 of going to Te Anau and days 27-28 of going to Milford Sound. Free Internet (especially with enough data allowance to post the pictures) is few and far between here.

I set out from Hollyford camp by 8am with no wind but a little rain. Took the 8km gravel road back to the Milford intersection and headed into the climb. It was cold this morning, I could see my breath as soon as I started.

The climb started pretty heavy but eased off for a while. About 6.5 miles total with the last mile being the worst. Nothing quite so motivating/depressing during a hill as avalanche zone warnings and attached no stopping signs. A couple miles in I take a break at the last allowed stopping zone until right before the end. I'm pretty worried about the no bikes/walkers sign that I mentioned yesterday so I cringe whenever I see a parks truck drive by, sure they are going to stop and make me turn around.

Around the three mile mark I'm starting to really feel it. Ahead I see a camper van slow down and start driving slower than I'm moving as he turns out of my view. I'm certain the road is going to shoot straight up or something's blocking it. When I get there it's one lane gravel until the next turn (maybe 100 feet) and tons of work trucks (but no workers) around. At this point I'm certain that sign is as the other cyclists interpreted, I'm not supposed to be here. Too late now!

Once I'm around the bend the gravel ends and it's back to smooth pavement climbing. The gradient eases a little and I'm feeling good about finishing it without too much struggle. The rain is picking up, temperature dropping down to 41. I could imagine my grandma lecturing me for being out in the cold without a jacket or pants. Just my wool shirt, jersey and bike shorts. Turns out I had left my leggings in the bag I left at camp in Te Anau.

Five miles in I think I'm almost done. I'm looking for the tunnel thinking any turn now its over. Then out in the distance there's a car going up the road. And it's steep. Heart drops, this wasn't the steep part!? Picked up to about 14% and stayed there for the last mile. Had to take a few quick stops on the shoulder then a much longer one at an actual allowed stopping zone. At this point I'm gearing up for the tunnel and descent. Tied my headlight to the bars since I forgot the mount at home, put on my rain jacket, cleaned the clear lenses off for my glasses.

As soon as I got back on my bike I didn't think I had it, if Homer Tunnel wasn't visible really quick I'd be walking. Hopes met when the next bend in the road, there it was. The big hole in the mountain everyone is scared of. I mash and swear as I go up the last very steep segment to the entrance.

I get there and the traffic director waves the car in front of me through and holds up a stop sign. “You're not allowed to bike through the tunnel.” No no no. “But go ask that guy in the orange if he will give you a lift.” He agrees, I load my bike into the work truck and hang out staring in awe into the tunnel while he finishes up.

We get moving and the tunnel is scary enough in a car. Pitch black, narrow, covered in potholes and awful pavement. Actually glad I got stopped.

“You know you're not allowed to cycle on this road at all, right? There is a sign posted right at the bottom.” I told the story about seeing it and talking to locals. He drives right past the open area on the other side of the tunnel. Assumed he was taking me all the way down until he stops at a big stopping area ahead and wishes me luck on the “fun part”. Hurray! Now to drop 950 meters in 15km on a wet road in the rain. Once I got comfortable I was keeping up with traffic, staying at the speed limit until the road started flattening out. Incredible.

By 12:30pm I had made it to camp, pitched my tent in the rain, showered and changed into some dry clothes. To the fjord!

I set out from Hollyford camp by 8am with no wind but a little rain. Took the 8km gravel road back to the Milford intersection and headed into the climb. It was cold this morning, I could see my breath as soon as I started.

The climb started pretty heavy but eased off for a while. About 6.5 miles total with the last mile being the worst. Nothing quite so motivating/depressing during a hill as avalanche zone warnings and attached no stopping signs. A couple miles in I take a break at the last allowed stopping zone until right before the end. I'm pretty worried about the no bikes/walkers sign that I mentioned yesterday so I cringe whenever I see a parks truck drive by, sure they are going to stop and make me turn around.

Around the three mile mark I'm starting to really feel it. Ahead I see a camper van slow down and start driving slower than I'm moving as he turns out of my view. I'm certain the road is going to shoot straight up or something's blocking it. When I get there it's one lane gravel until the next turn (maybe 100 feet) and tons of work trucks (but no workers) around. At this point I'm certain that sign is as the other cyclists interpreted, I'm not supposed to be here. Too late now!

Once I'm around the bend the gravel ends and it's back to smooth pavement climbing. The gradient eases a little and I'm feeling good about finishing it without too much struggle. The rain is picking up, temperature dropping down to 41. I could imagine my grandma lecturing me for being out in the cold without a jacket or pants. Just my wool shirt, jersey and bike shorts. Turns out I had left my leggings in the bag I left at camp in Te Anau.

Five miles in I think I'm almost done. I'm looking for the tunnel thinking any turn now its over. Then out in the distance there's a car going up the road. And it's steep. Heart drops, this wasn't the steep part!? Picked up to about 14% and stayed there for the last mile. Had to take a few quick stops on the shoulder then a much longer one at an actual allowed stopping zone. At this point I'm gearing up for the tunnel and descent. Tied my headlight to the bars since I forgot the mount at home, put on my rain jacket, cleaned the clear lenses off for my glasses.

As soon as I got back on my bike I didn't think I had it, if Homer Tunnel wasn't visible really quick I'd be walking. Hopes met when the next bend in the road, there it was. The big hole in the mountain everyone is scared of. I mash and swear as I go up the last very steep segment to the entrance.

I get there and the traffic director waves the car in front of me through and holds up a stop sign. “You're not allowed to bike through the tunnel.” No no no. “But go ask that guy in the orange if he will give you a lift.” He agrees, I load my bike into the work truck and hang out staring in awe into the tunnel while he finishes up.

We get moving and the tunnel is scary enough in a car. Pitch black, narrow, covered in potholes and awful pavement. Actually glad I got stopped.

“You know you're not allowed to cycle on this road at all, right? There is a sign posted right at the bottom.” I told the story about seeing it and talking to locals. He drives right past the open area on the other side of the tunnel. Assumed he was taking me all the way down until he stops at a big stopping area ahead and wishes me luck on the “fun part”. Hurray! Now to drop 950 meters in 15km on a wet road in the rain. Once I got comfortable I was keeping up with traffic, staying at the speed limit until the road started flattening out. Incredible.

By 12:30pm I had made it to camp, pitched my tent in the rain, showered and changed into some dry clothes. To the fjord!

Today is the 28th here, the day before my birthday. I left a bag of my heavier items that I could do without for a upper days at the motorcamp I stayed at and put in 100km to set myself up to attempt a thoroughly ridiculous day on a bicycle for my 26th birthday.

I cycled from Te Anau to Hollyford camp, which is about 8km from the base of the Milford Sound climb. Once again the world around me changed and I was heading into a lush coastal scene. The winds had calmed down a little but not much. Thankfully I was now surrounded by by trees which, for the most part, took the brunt of the wind and I rarely was getting the full hit.

The scenery just kept improving as I pushed on which really helped. Everything was new and beautiful, the wind wasn't often a problem and I was loving it. Looming was the thought of tomorrow's insanity but I mostly tried to avoid thinking about that.

Apparently people like camping on this side of the country. I passed more than a dozen DoC camp sites, most that I stopped to rest at seemed like places to park a camper van, not a good place to pitch a tent. Ignoring them I rode on to Hollyford camp, which was actually 8km after I reached the Milford Sound intersection but given the remote location set way back into the woods, it was worth it.

As I was almost to the Hollyford turn off I waved down a couple loaded cyclists going the other way. Wanted to hear about their adventure to Milford. Apparently they encountered a no cycling/walking sign and decided to play it safe. They hid their bikes in the woods and hitch hiked in. Asked if I brought a lock, suggested I do the same. My ubolt lock and cable was in the gear bag I left in Te Anau, oops. We talked for a while about our trips so far and further plans here then I got back on the bike. Felt like I was defeated.

When I got to camp I asked the person running it about me leaving my bike here for an extra day as I went on by thumb. She had no idea what I was talking about and said she's had cyclists coming through lately and didn't imagine that there was any reason I couldn't ride it. Hm, maybe I will, I said. In the kitchen while I was making food I was talking to some locals and they said the sign is about some walking paths that are closed currently. Guess I have to give it a shot, then.

As a result of poor planning and heavy delays by wind, today was day two of the one day trip to Te Anau. I had packed plenty of food but as mentioned yesterday, not enough water.

Due to the giant gathering of sand flies between my tent mesh and rain fly I gave another attempt at the art of packing all gear except tent in my panniers before unzipping the door and finally succeeded. Leaped out, packed the tent with minimal annoyance from flies and took off down the beautiful dirt road through the forest out from camp. I could hear the the wind hitting the trees around me hard already, not a good sign.

The moment I get out from the woods I get slammed by wind and it never gives up. I grit my teeth, stare at the ground and push on. Trying to avoid drinking much of the water I took from the tap at camp despite how thirsty I was. I didn't see a single place to fill a water bottle in my 65km from camp to Te Anau and wound up drinking a bottles worth of whatever is found in unfiltered spring water. Lesson learned, don't expect water at domains or DoC camps to drinkable (but it probably won't kill you if you do).

The terrain was pretty rough for most of the trip which didn't help. At some point the wind changed a little and a bend in the road gave me the full force tail wind. Got rocketed down a slight decline at 35kmh which given the quality of the road was terrifying but I wasn't going to complain.

Tomorrow I head north for a short side trip so maybe I'll catch a different side of the wind.

Pedallers' Paradise and the sites I've used to look into routes all recommended taking a boat out of Queenstown and the back roads (all dirt/gravel) to get to Te Anau. The boat ride was pretty cool, an old renovated boat cruising through the lake with Queenstown in the background.

Now, I love dirt roads but gravel isn't something the combination of my tires and weight I'm carrying do well with. The road was more often gravel than dirt and the big hills (going up and down) were particularly thick with it so I was thankful for disc brakes (as I often am) when I had to hold them the whole way down hills.

As has been the case most days in the last week, the wind was really hitting hard today. I struggled against heavy head/cross winds the entire day. Had to get off and walk a few hills as it took most of what I had to keep going 10mph on flat ground and I didn't have the power to climb a 12% grade on gravel in it.

For a while, I was well rewarded for my struggles with the terrain and wind. I was in a beautiful area of the country completely alone and enjoying the quiet.

Something the guide didn't mention was that this road also required me to ford a river. Just what I love, wet shoes. My photography skills make this look like I could hop across but it was about ankle deep and long enough I had to walk through.

At a later point before the big climb at the end of the hard part of the day (around 250 meters gain in 2km) I was hiding in a ditch under a tree trying to avoid the wind and eat when I spotted Jim and Tonya again, going the other way. Was pretty pumped to see friendly faces (or any faces for that matter, I think I hadn't seen another person in about five hours at this point). Jim seemed quite angry about the wind lately as they had been fighting the same weeks worth of head winds that I have it seemed (before today, since they're heading mostly east now). Tonya told me there was a “whole new country” past the hill but it was extremely rough and steep and on the other side the wind was worse. Lonely and empty, she said.

I don't think the wind was any worse than what I'd dealt with all day but she was right about the new world. The grass wasn't so green, there were no sheep or cows, no houses. Nothing.

After an hour of ramming into the wind in the middle of these plains I forded my second river of the day (my shoes had just finally dried off from the last one!) and life started returning to the world. Cows, green grass and some bushes were around.

By this point I'm down to about half a bottle of water that I'm trying to save because I'm not even sure I'll make it to camp tonight and I keep thinking I may be sleeping behind a bush in one of these fields. On I go into the wind and finally a while later I make it to the Mavora Lakes. Water and camp! Uh, okay so no water it turns out. $6nzd domain camping at a nice lake but no drinkable water. Tomorrow might be a little rough. It's 60km all downhill except one small hill from here to Te Anau but the guide mentions no services along the way. I packed well with food but hadn't considered I would actually need to fill my giant platypus water bag. Going to fill my bottles with water from the taps that say “unfiltered stream water, treatment recommended before drinking” and hope everything turns out okay.

To top it off, I got slammed by what seem like gnats that bite while setting up my tent. I later found out that these were the infamous sand flies of the west coast. I'm not that far west yet, I thought. Anyway, I pulled out the bug repellent I brought from home and after a few trips in and out of the tent (with some time spent murdering bugs) I've got quite the mess on my tent floor.

Today was my third day off the bike of the trip. I didn't really want to take one here but after how late I got in and how my legs felt I needed it. Outside of the expensive stuff I did the rest of the recommendations from the cyclists a couple nights back. I got coffee at Patagonias (mostly to use their free wifi), a burger at Fergburger and happy hour beer at 1876 pub. Outside of that I spent the rest of my day wandering around town, finally tracking down a patch kit to fix a tiny hole in my tents mesh, reading and tourist watching. Restlessness, as usual for days off, really started setting in after about 6pm. I need to try to put a couple short days back to back to try to avoid needing rest days in the future. They're great, but at some point I get uncomfortable having not actually gone anywhere.

Back to food. Now I have has some complaints about the food here, mostly things that I loved at home aren't as good and (other than meat pies) I haven't found any replacements. Burgers, however, are something they really get right here. Always enormous and always so perfect after a day on the bike. Now I know this is something people say about a lot of places, but I can definitely say that Fergburger today served me the best burger I've ever had.

I also spent some time today actually attempting to form a plan for the rest of my time here (gasp). I've spent enough time talking to cyclists and reading the South Island Peddlers' Paradise book that I have a pretty solid idea on the remainder of my time down here will be like. Given that, I could make a rough guess on how much time I'd have on the North Island as well. Looks like I can make a mad dash across the boring southern part, ride the eastern cape then see (quickly) the tropical top of the island before getting back to Auckland at the end of January.